The Game’s Afoot

places to see, things to do, and the latest on travel

MERRIE OLDE ENGLAND IN PENNSYLVANIA, AND BEYOND

Every summer, Queen Elizabeth I and her retinue majestically stroll the grounds of the Pennsylvania Renaissance Faire in the midst of Lancaster County’s Amish farmland. The year is 1562, and Her Majesty’s Court and onlookers are abuzz with the latest Royal intrigue. Meanwhile jugglers, fire eaters, dancers, hypnotists, practitioners of ancient crafts, falconers, wenches, waifs, and the stray beggar vie for attention among the throngs, both courtly and common. Feasting, games of human chess, games of skill, swordplay—all are a part of the Pennsylvania Renaissance Faire at Mount Hope Estate and Winery on weekends through 26th October. And after the Queen’s departure for the year, Mount Hope’s Victorian mansion becomes the eerie scene of “Poe Evermore,” a Halloween adventure for the stout-hearted, followed by “A Charles Dickens Victorian Christmas.” All this anachronistic fun takes place off Route 72, 15 miles north of Lancaster, 14 miles east of Hershey, and half a mile south of 1-76 exit 266. Faire hours: Sat-Sun, 9.30 am-6.30 pm. Admission: $ 21.95 adults, $ 8.95 children ages 5-11. Tel: 717-665-7021; web: www.parenfaire.com.

The Pennsylvania Renaissance Faire is one of many throughout the year across North America. For more information, see www.faires.com.

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bristol’s empire museum

THE NEW BRITISH EMPIRE AND COMMONWEALTH MUSEUM looks at Britain’s history from John Cabot’s discovery of the North American mainland in 1497, through the building of the largest empire in history, to the present family of nations included in the British Commonwealth. Objects, costumes, film, photographs, and sound recordings tell the story of Britain’s empire and its impact on the world. Twenty themed galleries cover not only maritime, military, and technological triumphs but also racism, cultural imperialism, and slavery.
The museum is housed in the historic terminus building of the Great Western Railway next to Temple Meads, Bristol’s current rail station and transportation hub. It opens 10 am-5 pm daily except Christmas and Boxing Day. Admission: £ 5.95 adults, £ 3.95 children ages 5-15, £ 4.95 seniors and students, £ 14 family (two adults, two children). Full wheelchair access. For more on the museum, go to the Travel page atBritishHeritage.com.

CLARENCE HOUSE OPEN

THE QUEEN MOTHER’S former London residence, Clarence House, is open to visitors through 17th October. The five rooms on the guided tour show the Queen Mother’s furniture and art arranged as they were when she lived here until her death at age 101 in March 2002.
Designed by architect John Nash, Clarence House was the home of King William IV from 1830 to 1837. Queen Elizabeth II moved in as a newlywed Princess in 1947, and the Queen Mother made it her home in 1953 when Queen Elizabeth moved her young family to Buckingham Palace upon her accession to the throne. Prince Charles, who lived at Clarence House from age seven months to three years, will be the next member of the Royal Family to reside there. Visitors see the rooms where Prince Charles will host official functions and entertain important guests.
Hours: 9 am-7 pm daily, last admission 6 pm. Opening arrangements may change at short notice, as this is a working royal residence. Admission: £5 for adults, £3 for those under age 17, free for children under age 5. Opening arrangements may change at short notice, as this is a working royal residence. Admission: £5 for adults, £3 for those under age 17, free for children under age 5. All tickets for the guided tours are timed and must be pre-booked. Tel: 020 7766 7303. Clarence House is expected to open for public tours again in the future. Web: www.royal.gov.uk

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Budget london Lodging

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If you want to stay in London, it goes without saying that you’ll have to spend a fortune on lodging, right? Not necessarily. If you prefer spending your travel money in other ways, you have a number of lodging choices, some basic, some posh. Chains familiar in the U.S.—Days Inn (from about £62, www.daysinn.com), Travelodge (from about £70, www.travelodge.co.uk), and Holiday Inn (from about £43, www.hiexpress.co.uk)—all have hotels in London. Self-catering Clarendon House Apartments (clarendonhouseapartments.co.uk) costs as little as £300 a week. B&Bs are a good and comfortable value in London—check with Uptown Reservations (from £95, www.uptownres.co.uk). The University of Westminster offers dorm accommodation (from £21, www.wmin.ac.uk). And there are youth hostels such as the new Piccadilly Hotel (from £12, www.piccadillyhotel.net), open to all ages, that offer guests a dorm set-up. For more choices, see the Travel page at BritishHeritage.com.

EDINBURGH’S UNDERGROUND HISTORY

BENEATH EDINBURGH lies a warren of streets and dwellings, covered and forgotten since 1753 when their upper stories were knocked down and their lower walls were used as foundations for the Royal Exchange, now the City Chambers. Documents from the time of King Charles I and archaeological evidence have revealed the identities of some of the people who once lived there, such as a grave-digger’s family and a young girl whose family died of the plague of 1645. Here, too, is one of the best examples of 17th-century housing in Scotland. Visitors to this subterranean world, called The Real Mary King’s Close, follow guides who portray characters from the past and tell authenticated tales as well as centuries-old ghost stories.
The entrance is on Warriston’s Close, opposite St. Giles Cathedral. Walking surfaces are uneven, making sturdy shoes essential. Children under age 5 are not admitted. Tours run every 20 minutes from 10 am. The last tour group departs at 9 pm April-October, 4 pm November-March. Open every day except Christmas. Prebooking is recommended; tel: 08702 430160. Admission: £7 adults, £5 for children ages 5-15, £6 seniors and students, £21 families (two adults, two children). Web: www.realmarykingsclose.com.

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not just fly-by-night flights

If you’re not fond of the usual overnight flight to the U.K., there are alternatives. Several airlines offer flights that take off from the U.S. and Canada in the morning and touch down between 8 pm and 10 pm in London. If that seems like a better idea, check out these options:

Air Canada from Toronto (www.aircanada.com, tel: 888-247-2262)

American from Chicago, Boston, and New York’s JFK (www.aa.com, tel: 800-433-7300)

British Airways from Boston, New York (Newark and JFK), and No. Virginia’s Dulles (www.british-airways.com, tel: 800-247-9297)

United from Chicago via Dulles (www.ual.com, tel: 800-241-6522)

Virgin Atlantic from Newark (www.virginatlantic.com, tel: 800-862-8621)